Proper application is key to getting the best result from any antifouling paint. There is some debate as to whether you should thin antifoul paint. Most manufacturer will tell you not do it, claiming that their antifoul are formulated to the optimum viscosity for their designed application thickness.
Antifoul paints are particularly prone to settling – the cuprous oxide and other biocides will be at the bottom of the can. For the paint to be as effective as possible these needs to be mixed thoroughly and evenly with the paint.
The Farr 25 OD has an ingenious outboard system whereby a 6 HP outboard engine swings in and out on an articulated arm from a storage locker in the cockpit sole directly into the outboard well. It’s thus ready to go in a few seconds and you don’t have to haul it out of a locker and then fiddle trying to attach it to a bracket
This paint might have fallen off the back of a lorry or been obtained through a friend of a friend that works in a boat yard or in the navy. It will always come in a stupidly large 10 or 20 litres tin. Very awkward to handle – it might be half price compared to a cheap yachting antifouling paint but you will be buying twice the quantity you need…
This type of antifouling paint attracts a wide variety of sailors:
The traditionalist, he owns a wooden boat and harks back to more traditional times when sailors would make their own antifoul from tar…
This type of antifouling paint appeals to the skipper who has the mistaken belief that commercial fishermen have access to better antifoul than yachties. The cheap price of the paint used by fishermen also deeply resonates with him. What sailor would not want a better product at a cheaper price?